concrete dye

Discussion in 'Architecture & Engineering' started by sculptor, May 18, 2020.

  1. sculptor Valued Senior Member

    Messages:
    6,817
    My kitchen floor is concrete.
    I wuz gonna lay ceramic tile on it, but then thought:
    Maybe I could just dye the concrete, then seal and wax it.
    ok
    Ithink that an acid based stain is unnecessary
    so a dye
    An H2O dye seems adequate---not acetone.
    I'm thinking a deep blue.......................

    Your thoughts?
    Knowledge?
    wild guesses?
     
  2. Google AdSense Guest Advertisement



    to hide all adverts.
  3. exchemist Valued Senior Member

    Messages:
    9,552
    I think it will look crap and be hard to clean properly, due to the uneven surface finish. I would put tiles down.
     
  4. Google AdSense Guest Advertisement



    to hide all adverts.
  5. sculptor Valued Senior Member

    Messages:
    6,817
    yeh, well
    I had thought that the prep for tile and for dye are mostly alike(clean and etch)
    and then
    before I add a sealant and wax
    if it looks like crap
    I could fall back on tile
    which I had bought previously
    from what I;ve read, it seems that the sealant should be redone periodically.
    ...........
    and, now then, if it looks good with just the deep blue dye
    I can quit there
    I have dyed concrete in my shop
    (also deep blue) and it has weathered well
    but that was done by sprinkling the dyed material on top of fresh--uncured--concrete
    not an option with the 30 year old concrete in the kitchen
    (sigh)
     
  6. Google AdSense Guest Advertisement



    to hide all adverts.
  7. Seattle Valued Senior Member

    Messages:
    5,932
    Could you do the same thing as in your shop if you added a thin layer of mortar over the cement and then add the dyed flakes?

    I've seen something like that done to refinish a basement floor.
     
  8. parmalee peripatetic artisan Valued Senior Member

    Messages:
    2,943
    It also typically takes about 5x longer to dry than you would expect it to--at least, from my experience.

    Personally, I think dye could turn out well. Keeping in mind that any present inconsistencies/discoloration will remain, of course. Also, given that there aren't going to be any sort of chemical reactions that drastically alter what you see initially, you've at least got that...
     
  9. (Q) Encephaloid Martini Valued Senior Member

    Messages:
    20,392
    If staining and not using a primary color, veining and bleed through can result from colors used in the mix
    Cold, noisy and echo's
    Easily stains if not properly sealed. Sealing required every couple years to maintain
    Develops cracks
    Can destroy something dropped on it
    Can chip or crack if something dropped on it
    Stains, cracks and chips not easily repaired
     
  10. exchemist Valued Senior Member

    Messages:
    9,552
    True, though I don't think mortar would be very hard-wearing - might flake off where people walk etc. Ceramic would be a lot harder, I think.
     
  11. Seattle Valued Senior Member

    Messages:
    5,932
    I don't really know what the company used on the treatment of the basement floor. I only saw it on a video. The basement floor was concrete and they came in and spread something over the floor, maybe epoxy? and then added the flakes and then polished it all. When it was done it was quite and improvement and looked almost like marble.
     
  12. sculptor Valued Senior Member

    Messages:
    6,817
    It's a nice sunny day at 58 degrees F
    <----is still working on the acid etching part of the process.
    vicisitudes of the web:
    eg: "Add 1 part of 33% hydrochloric acid to 2 parts water to make a 10% solution"
    OK it just me of is there something wrong with the math?
    (17% solution?)
    and
    much advice for mixing acid to water ranges from a 1:10 to a 1:2 ratio, neglects to specify the acid concentration of the acid........................
    in percentage nor baumé degree
    .....................................
    the adventure continues
    some of the water soluble dye arrived yesterday
    (did a small test in a corner that will be covered by the stove this morn)
    So far, etching with the weaker solutions has been inadequate---though heading in the right direction...
    another acid etch this morn using a 1:3 ratio of 31.5% acid to distilled water
    = 11%--------------------or----(balls to the wall, so to speak) and go with 1:2
    = 16% solution?

    ..................................................................................................................................................................................
    i ain't completely confused yet
    but i am working on it
    the adventure continues
     
  13. sculptor Valued Senior Member

    Messages:
    6,817
    Or:
    Am I missing something important?
     
  14. iceaura Valued Senior Member

    Messages:
    30,241
    Nothing important

    They do make colored epoxy resin for concrete floors - it dries smooth and shiny, wears well if not baked in UV. If you use clear stuff you can put color down underneath, almost anything - like a bar top. I've seen mostly football team logos.

    It's a bit more forgiving than bare concrete, when you drop something - not much, but some.

    What I got:
    11%,
    (a third of a third, shaded low) That's enough of a miss to screw up a job.
    About 7.9%
    A third of a fourth, shaded low
    About 10.5%
    (A third of a third again, shaded further low)

    how: 33/ (33 + (100-33)+200)), better 33/300, = ratio of acid to total contents. So: 33/300, 31,5/400, 31.5/300.
     

Share This Page