Hi. I'm the new Chemistry moderator. I don't have much to say really. I have a BSc majoring in Chemistry, which has almost as much Geology as Chemistry in it (I was originally going to do a double major, but changed my mind in my final year), as well as a 'smattering' of physics and maths. Generally speaking, I will do my best to answer any questions. I won't do your homework for you, but I will try and give you the tools you need to get it done. The user name Trippy is a reference to a nickname I picked up somewhere along the way in reference to some of the conversations I used to have. The title Hippy Chemist is a direct reference to my chosen career. I work in environmental chemistry. I work to protect the environment. My job is within the Government (local government) applying science to law enforcement.
Hi, Trippy! So you're my boy (girl?) I go to if I wanna know how and why UMHwPE fractures under stress? Please Register or Log in to view the hidden image! I look forward to it!
Hi Trippy, congrats on the modship. Now all you have to do is sit back and wait for for the backlash Please Register or Log in to view the hidden image!
Boy, and Organic chem isn't really my thing (Let alone polymers). I could probably forward some guesses though. Please Register or Log in to view the hidden image!
Eh, it's not important. I just know someone with a knee replacement and was curious how hard to kick them, and the Ethics and Justice mod was like, "Stay off my board!" Please Register or Log in to view the hidden image!
From what i've seen (yes, I did a bit of a search) you probably won't do it by kicking them - given that the fibres have a yield strength of 2.4 GPa, and it gets used for things like body armour. UHMwPE on Wiki Edit: I have no problems with adressing materials science questions,a s the chemistry forum is teh closest thing ther eis to a materials science forum.
I've seen UHMWPE wear down, but never break, not even 1/4" thick strips given into the care of ham-fisted engineering apprentices. And wearing it down takes a long while:- One of my prettier designs, relying on the stuff to let passenger baggage slip along smoothly - there are 6mm (maybe 8mm it's a while since I did the drawings) thick strips all the way round under the top and bottom edges of the slats. Please Register or Log in to view the hidden image!
Relatively speaking Please Register or Log in to view the hidden image! Been on the forum for a while, been a Mod for a little while, been thinking about making this post for almost as long as i've been a mod.
You have a very nice and great work huh?Keep up the good work always and goodluckPlease Register or Log in to view the hidden image!
Peoples Republic of Antarctica? I'm into northern and container gardening. Whatever happened to the gardening sticky or thread you were thinking of starting? There likely a lot more gardeners lurking in the woodwork than most would guess and and now more than ever we need more non-soil based agriculture to supplement our food supply and ensure the quality of what we are putting into our bodies. Just my opinion....Please Register or Log in to view the hidden image!
hydroponics. I got a soil question . My soil for tomato last year seemed deficient . Some of the tomatoes had cellular collapse and the leaf and stem was way over grown . Didn't even look like tomato plants the leaves were so bushy and broad . I think maybe some bone meal might fix it up but I am not sure ? Is there to much nitrogen in the soil ? The soil was suppose to be top soil , but it looked more like cellulose debris , or more like mulch than soil . Wal-mart . I did mix local soil with it , but our local soil is pretty much clay that is good for growing grasses. Local top soil is scarce
I had only one of my tomato plants last year that was some kind of a 'mutant', multiple branchings, and excessive flowering but never did set any fruit, though in the same soil as the others. That one I wrote off as being an error of nature, lol.... Tomatoes are incredibly sensitive to temperature change when setting fruit and this can cause some of the problems you mention, as well as many are prone to a host of diseases. I tend to grow varieties with broad disease resistance. As for the soil used, if all other conditions are met, I have never found tomatoes to be as choosy as some other plants, they being rather light feeders. My mother was complaining that the potting soil that she and several others purchased last year seemed to be heavier than usual and complained of her flowers doing poorly, but we also had yo-yo weather all season with wicked temperature fluctuations. That's my dimes worth. I'm interested in hearing what our resident chemist has to offer, as my success, while based on considerable research, is more of the trial and error kind, and high-grading the results of others whose efforts I observe. Please Register or Log in to view the hidden image!
Be nice to S.A.M, it's Ramadan. Or as I said when I found out it meant my coworker can neither eat, drink, nor smoke from sunup to sundown.... rrRRRRRRRRRRRRAMADAAAAAN!!!!!Please Register or Log in to view the hidden image!Please Register or Log in to view the hidden image!Please Register or Log in to view the hidden image! (My coworker's an organ-recovery specialist and works some brutally wacky hours too...hooboy...)
Zing, I guess... but I expected more from a reply two years in the making. Please Register or Log in to view the hidden image!
Hi, folks, I'm not Trippy Please Register or Log in to view the hidden image! but I do have a fair amount of lab experience and, more importantly, for this particular topic, I'm pretty well educated when it comes to tomatoes. Please Register or Log in to view the hidden image! Both field and potted. While it's correct that they aren't very picky feeders when it come to nutrients, they readily respond to high nitrogen levels and will put ALL their efforts into producing foliage. Professional gardeners over the years have told me that's assumed to be because the plant is building "infrastructure" while the nitrogen supply is high in anticipation of switching to heavy fruiting once levels drop to "normal." The rest of that thought is that then it has the framework - both physical strength AND very large leaf area - in place to feed and develop a huge amount of fruit. Also, a tomato plant will not produce blossoms - or they will drop - if the nighttime temp falls below 70 degrees F. A single night here and there won't hurt much, but two or three nights below 70 in a row is fatal for blooms. It may take as much as a week following that cool spell before it will attempt blooming again. One more thing: Lots of people have a tendency to over-water potted plants - including tomatoes. So be careful when watering and learn to use the old "touch the soil with a finger test" to see when it needs it. If you want the best results, use that method instead of just counting the days between waterings.
